Good chart skeleton. A few indoor-specific gotchas and cues that actually work under LEDs:
Hoya: your timing is optimistic. Indoors it’s usually 3-9 months from pollination to dehiscence; don’t wait for a wide split-bag as soon as the seam browns and the pod feels “wooden.” Viability falls off in days, not weeks.
Tillandsia/bromeliads: many are self-incompatible. Capsules 4-10 weeks. Visual cue: capsule turns tan and the sutures wrinkle. Bag with organza; seeds with comas dry out fast-surface-sow within a week. No freezer, no desiccant.
Aloe/Haworthia/Gasteria: often self-incompatible. 6-8 weeks from bloom. Pods go from olive to straw and start to zipper from the tip. Dry, rub out, store cool/dry. Viability best within 6-12 months (Aloe shortest).
Sansevieria (Dracaena trifasciata): berries color to orange/translucent. Scoop seeds when the jelly turns from clear to cloudy and seed coat is firm beige→brown. Rinse thoroughly; sow within a month. Fridge + desiccant tanks viability.
Peperomia: spikes go from glossy to matte tan and crumble when pinched. Tap out “dust,” surface-sow immediately. Storage is poor beyond a few months.
Schlumbergera: fruits take 6-12 months; when dull and soft, soak 12-24 h, rub through a tea strainer, dry 24 h. Stores 1-2 years cool/dry.
Pelargonium: collect when the “beaks” brown and begin to spring; long-lived dry seed (3-5 years).
Philodendron/Monstera/Anthurium: don’t dry hard. Clean pulp fully (pectinase: ¼ tsp per cup warm water, 20-30 min), quick 10% bleach dip 5-10 min, rinse, then sow on barely moist medium. If you must hold, damp sphagnum in the fridge <1-2 weeks.
Spathiphyllum: will set seed, but it’s fussy and short-lived. Spadix turns tan; sow fresh. Not worth storing.
Cacti note: many berries stay firm-don’t wait for softness on all species. Color change + easy detachment are better cues; dry seed with a fan 24-48 h before jarring.
Low-effort bagging: organza gift bags, large paper tea filters, or nylon footies + twist tie around the peduncle. For fluffy seeds, double-bag or add a small cotton ball to catch flyaways.
Storage hacks: tiny coin envelopes inside a screw-cap jar with a color-change silica pack and a humidity card; park at the back of the fridge (not the door). Write species + pollination + month/year. Do not freeze anything recalcitrant (aroids, bromeliads, palms, most “sow-fresh” types).
Labeling: use “OP” (open-pollinated) or “selfed,” and parentage if known (X × Y). Never reuse cultivar names for seedlings-“seedling of ‘Cultivar’” is the honest tag. Orchids = grex rules. Trading across borders: check CITES (orchids, many cacti/succulents) and your state’s noxious list; Tradescantia, Oxalis, and Ardisia are invasive in warm regions-maybe skip those for swaps.
General cue that beats the calendar indoors: seed color shift (cream → tan/brown/black) plus texture change (fleshy → papery/woody) and an easy detachment with a sideways flick. If you’re unsure, dissect one capsule-if seeds are still pale/soft, wait. If one pops in your hand, you waited too long, bag earlier next time.