A couple of combos that have worked surprisingly well here: for high-humidity corners or near tabletop fountains, Selaginella kraussiana, Pellionia daveauana, or Fittonia as an underplanting-fast, lush, and they visibly bump local humidity, but only if the soil stays evenly moist and there’s airflow. For brighter, drier spots, Soleirolia (baby’s tears) and Pilea depressa have been easier than the classic creeping fig; Ficus pumila looks great short-term but will cling to everything and outcompete neighbors unless you bury a thin plastic edging ring or sink it in its own nursery pot. Biggest maintenance win has been “pot-in-pot” underplantings: drop a small perforated pot with the ground cover into the main planter so watering and fertilizing can be tuned separately and roots can’t strangle the main plant. To keep fungus gnats down with these moisture lovers, I cap exposed soil with a 1-2 cm band of coarse grit around the base trunk, use BTI drenches occasionally, and run a small fan on low. If moss is the look, keep it to a thin layer and leave a bare collar around the primary stem to avoid stem rot and anaerobic pockets. Functionally, the living mulch really does cut surface evaporation and soil splash, and it keeps the substrate cooler-just not expecting major air-cleaning beyond dust-trapping. Has anyone tried Corsican mint (Mentha requienii) indoors around a small water feature long-term without it melting in winter-did higher light fix that, or was constant wicking the key?